Heysham

 

First time visitors to Heysham experience a mixture of reactions – first, surprise at finding a village of such antiquity nestling around the corner from the imposing nuclear power station; second, enchantment as its treasures are revealed. Finally gratitude that they have had the good fortune to visit such a delightful corner of Lancashire.

 

Start: Morecambe Promenade. [Sat nav: LA4 4BU] From junction 34 M6 follow signs for Lancaster centre on A683. On reaching the one way system it important to keep in the right lane which will take you across the River Lune. Bear left onto A589Morecambe Road. At third roundabout keep ahead, still on A589 now called Broadway. This will take you onto Marine Drive.

 

Map by kind permission of the Blackpool Gazette

 

 

 Summary: Distance: 10k 6m

                  Time: 3 hours

                  Terrain: Very easy walking along the promenade

                  Map: OS Explorer 296 Lancaster & Morecambe

 

Directions: Where you choose to begin the walk depends on how much time you have. The described route starts close to the Midland Hotel, but first you may wish to look at two memorials further up the prom. Close to the lifeboat station is the most poignant reminder of the treacherousness of the sands of Morecambe Bay. The memorial is dedicated to the 23 Chinese cockle pickers who lost their lives in February 2004. The scale of this disaster drew world wide attention to the plight of migrant workers often exploited by uncaring gang masters. In this case so uncaring that they didn't bother consulting the tide tables. Walking south along the prom you'll arrive at a rather different memorial - one guaranteed to lift your spirits for here is a statue of Morecambe's most famous son Eric Morecambe.

 

Born Eric Bartholomew in 1926, his partnership with Ernie Wise eventually made them the most successful comic duo in television history. Eric's clowning antics provided a perfect foil to Ernie's "beaming complacency" and attracted some of the largest television audiences ever especially their Christmas Specials. Sculptor Graham Ibbeson has captured Eric in a frolicking pose reminding us of the way the pair would conclude their shows. He died in 1984 at the age of 58.

 

Now start walking. The promenade passes behind the recently renovated Midland Hotel, famous for its art deco style.

 

Off to the right is Stone Jetty. You may wish to make a brief detour along to its end. From it you'll be able to better gauge the wide sweep of Morecambe Bay. Across the sands the Lakeland Fells are so close that individual fell tops can easily be identified on clear days. Continuing along the promenade you will admire the results of recent improvement. There is a marked jogging route and at frequent intervals on the broadwalk there are embedded plaques explaining aspects of the area's history.

 

As you reach Heysham steps from the promenade take you up into the village. Be prepared for a surprise for the place is of a different age from the unexceptional 19th and 20th century development along the front. Huddled below Chapel Hill stone cottages retain the feel of a rural community.

 

 St Peter's church was established in the 13th century, though what you see today has been extensively restored.

 

Further up the hill are the ruins of St Patrick's chapel. Legend has it that the saint himself landed here from Ireland. Particularly interesting are the stone graves carved into a platform of rock near the ruins.

 

Continuing up to a grassy knoll you are immediately confronted by the shock of the new - for there less than a mile away are the monolithic buildings of Heysham's two nuclear power stations.

 

Turner came to Heysham to paint, but he would not have wanted to paint these beasts. They may be impressive and they may be necessary but they are certainly not beautiful. A path leads to the left and then keeping left enter the woods. Follow it down to the village and make your way back to the promenade.

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